Hemel-en-Aarde Past, Present and Future
When Tim Hamilton Russell chose the Hemel en Aarde valley to plant grapes in 1975, he saw it as a potentially great and cooler place to grow the noble varieties. At the time, a Bordeaux blend and other varieties were part of the plan (chardonnay was not then available). His wine mentor, Desiderius Pongracz was the one particularly enthusiastic about Pinot Noir; this formed much of the initial plantings.
Today, pinot accounts for 105 ha and chardonnay 85 ha, across all three Wards.
If Tim Hamilton Russell’s pinot plantings in the 1970s seem a long time ago, Bevan Newton Johnson, of Newton Johnson Family Vineyards claims the valley’s experience with pinot is recent and short; ‘When the Dijon clones arrived in the mid-90s, due to the urgency, we ended up with poorer quality; all those original vineyards have had to be replanted.’
He reckons the valley’s oldest Dijon clone pinot vineyards cannot be more than 25-27 years; ‘It’s an incredibly short vine heritage and we’re far behind many of our international competitors.’
Trying to achieve clean vineyards of at least 30 years of age has required replanting around 10-15% over the past 19 years. A corollary in this young valley is the relatively brief experience and knowledge of winemakers and viticulturists, due to frequent changes in personnel. ‘Only now is there potential building of that collective knowledge and essential reference of pinot experience,’ Bevan believes. On a brighter note, it excites him and others that South African and Hemel en Aarde pinot found its signature, therefore its appeal and markets. ‘Despite coming off a poor base and a short heritage of working with Dijon clones, the wonderful demand for Hemel en Aarde pinot is making for a bright future.’
What of the future and the spectre of climate change? While Anthony Hamilton Russell says more extreme weather events are inevitable, they (as yet) do not seem to be more magnified than in the past. A view Creation’s Carolyn Martin agrees with thanks to the Benguela Current’s cooling influence.
Each are taking proactive measures; in Anthony’s case limiting increase in C02 with cover crops increasing soil microbial and fungal activity and diversity, one move with other farming practices that has raised average soil carbon from 1.5% to 3.5% in some vineyards. Prunings are chipped and used as mulch rather than burned. Bottle weight has been reduced by 32.3%. For the valley as a whole, the Hemel-en-Aarde Nature Conservancy aims to have a ring of conserved indigenous vegetation – wetlands, forests, biodiversity corridors - around all the valley.
Carolyn Martin believes being agile and looking at viticulture practices is what it’s about, which is what her husband, JC Martin & winemaker, Gerhard Smith spend doing much of the time: modifying canopy management is one tactic to adapt to changing climate. Creation also does a great deal of research and development with Stellenbosch & international universities on the Biome, Climate Change and Viruses; they are working on the Gen-Z project with Vititec focusing on chardonnay and pinot noir clones and rootstocks in Creation’s vineyards. On farmers’ days, the sites are visited, to demonstrate and discuss the results.
These are just small examples of all the activity going on in the valley. Thanks to all the proactive thinking, I agree with Bevan Newton Johnson that not only pinot, but other varieties have a bright future there.
- Blog by Angela Lloyd